Common Teka microwave faults: identify the issue and apply the right fix

Important (safety): a microwave contains high voltage components. Even when unplugged, some parts can retain charge. This guide focuses on “user-safe” checks (cleaning, settings, visual inspection, resets and external parts). If the issue points to the magnetron, diode, capacitor, transformer or the control board, the safest option is a qualified technician

Not heating: why it happens and what you can check

Symptom: the microwave seems to run (lights/time/sound), but food comes out cold or only slightly warm

Safe checks:

• Power level and program: make sure it’s not set to “defrost” or a low power level; test 1 minute with a cup of water
• Door: if the door doesn’t close perfectly, the safety system may prevent heating
• Ventilation: ensure it isn’t boxed in without airflow and that vents aren’t clogged with grease or dust

If it still won’t heat: the most common causes are in the high-voltage circuit (magnetron, diode, capacitor or transformer) or the control board/relay. At that point, avoid “trial and error”: call a technician. If the unit is old, compare repair cost vs. replacement

Powers on but won’t start: door interlocks, keypad and timer

Symptom: the display turns on and you can press some buttons, but when you press “Start” it won’t run or stops immediately

Step-by-step fix:

• Check the latch: open and close firmly; clean the door frame (grease and residue can prevent proper closure)
• Check child lock mode: many models toggle it by holding a key (depends on the panel). If you see a lock icon or controls don’t respond, disable the lock
• Simple reset: unplug for 2–3 minutes, plug back in and set the program again

If it keeps happening: it’s often related to the door micro-switches (interlocks) or the latch mechanism. If you have to “push” the door for it to start, that’s a strong clue

Turns off or resets: power supply, overheating and control board

Symptom: it starts and then suddenly turns off, the clock resets, or it goes back to zero—especially during longer heating cycles

What to do:

• Socket and plug: test another wall outlet (avoid power strips) to rule out a loose connection
• Avoid sharing the circuit: if it’s on the same line as an oven, high-power coffee machine or water heater, voltage dips can occur
• Ventilation: clean vents and make sure air can flow; overheating can trigger protections
• Let it cool down: if it fails after repeated use, leave it 15–20 minutes and see if it runs again

If it only fails while heating: a thermal safety cut-out may be tripping, or there may be abnormal load. If you also notice a burnt smell or loud snapping, stop and call a technician

Trips the RCD/breaker: common causes and safe steps

Symptom: when you plug it in or start heating, it trips the RCD (earth leakage) or the breaker (overload/short)

Safe actions:

• Try another outlet (ideally on a different circuit) to rule out the installation
• Avoid extension leads and power strips
• Check moisture: if it’s near steam (hob/hood) or you cleaned with too much water, let it dry for 24 hours

If it trips when you press “Start”: it often indicates an internal fault (earth leakage, diode/capacitor, wiring, transformer or magnetron). Don’t keep retrying—each attempt can worsen the fault. Call a technician

Sparking inside: waveguide cover (mica), grease and cavity damage

Symptom: you see sparks/arcing inside, usually in one specific area (often where the mica cover sits), sometimes with a burnt smell

Quick fix:

• Stop using it immediately
• Inspect and clean: if there’s stuck grease or burnt food residue, clean thoroughly with a damp cloth and mild soap (no abrasives)
• Mica cover: if it’s burnt, cracked or has holes, it needs replacing. This is a common repair
• Avoid metal or dishes with metallic trim

If the cavity is damaged (paint lifted/bare metal): repair may not be worth it. A deteriorated cavity tends to spark again and can be unsafe

Unusual noises: fan, turntable, magnetron and vibrations

Symptom: loud humming, rattling, vibrations or a “new” noise you didn’t hear before

Noise-based diagnosis:

• Rattling while turning: often the turntable/rollers are misaligned or the ring is dirty
• Loud hum during heating: some hum is normal, but if it suddenly becomes very loud it may point to the magnetron/transformer or the fan
• Metallic vibration: check it’s properly installed and level; loose fitting can amplify vibration

Fix: clean and reseat the turntable and roller ring, and ensure the unit is firmly mounted. If the noise only happens when heating, get it checked

Turntable not spinning: motor, coupler and rollers

Symptom: it heats but the turntable doesn’t rotate, or it turns in jerks

Step-by-step fix:

• Remove the glass tray and clean the base (grease and debris can stop it turning)
• Check the roller ring: if it’s warped, broken or very dirty, the tray can jam
• Check the coupler: the central piece that engages the tray can be worn or loose

If everything looks fine and it still won’t spin: the most common cause is the turntable motor or its supply. This is a typical workshop repair

Inside light not working: bulb/LED and door switch

Symptom: the microwave runs, but the interior light doesn’t turn on (or flickers)

What to check:

• If it uses a bulb: it may be blown (replacement often requires internal access; better for a technician)
• If it uses an LED: it’s often part of a module/board; the module or board can fail
• If the light is door-triggered: a door micro-switch could be failing (and that can also affect starting)

If heating works and everything else is fine: it’s a minor issue. But if starting also fails, suspect the door switches

Buttons not responding: child lock, membrane and moisture

Symptom: you press buttons and nothing happens, or some keys work and others don’t

Fix:

• Disable child lock if enabled
• Clean the panel with a barely damp cloth (do not soak). Grease can affect touch/membrane response
• Reset: unplug for 2–3 minutes

If specific buttons fail repeatedly: it’s usually a worn membrane/keypad or moisture ingress. In built-in units, kitchen steam can accelerate this

Door won’t close or “latch”: hook, hinges and safety

Symptom: the door feels loose, won’t click shut, has play, or you must push it for the microwave to work

Fix:

• Clean the frame: remove grease and residue around the latch area
• Visual inspection: check if the latch hook is broken or if the hinge has sagged
• Don’t force it: if the latch is faulty, the microwave may not heat for safety—or worse, operate with an unsafe closure

Recommendation: if the door doesn’t close perfectly, repair the mechanism sooner rather than later. It’s one of the most common causes of “powers on but won’t start”

How to prevent most Teka microwave problems

• Clean grease and splashes regularly: reduces sparking, smells and mica damage
• Never use metal or dishes with metallic edges
• Respect ventilation in built-in units: don’t block grills or airflow paths
• Avoid direct steam on the control panel (use the hood and ventilate)
• If it trips the RCD or smells burnt: stop using it and have it checked

Conclusion: with Teka microwaves, most “errors” present as recurring symptoms across many models. If the issue is cleaning, latching or the turntable, it’s often quick to fix. If it affects heating, breaker trips or resets, the safest choice is a technician—both for safety and to avoid bigger damage